Relaxing with Educación y Futuro in Rosillas

Educación y Futuro are a locally-run non-profit organization which run several programs in the local community. From their base in Rosillas, they organize treks and horse-riding in the surrounding villages and mountains of the Valle de las Cóndores. The starting and end point for these activities is la Torre, their lovely guesthouse on their farm in Rosillas.

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They produce bread, yogurt and cheese on a small scale and visitors to the farm can watch the process and taste the finished products.

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You also get to try ambrosia, fresh milk mixed with singani (Bolivian liquor) and a little cinnamon and sugar. It was warm, frothy and delicious.

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The farm has a plant nursery where they grow trees to be used in reforesting the local area.

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There’s an array of cute farm animals and pets (except for the one called Gollum, which is easy to spot).

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Contact Educación y Futuro through their website at valledeloscondores.com or their shop, Ecosol, on Plaza Sucre in Tarija.

The unhealthiest fruit salad

On the suggestion of a friend, we went to Sucre’s Mercado Central for breakfast.

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Fruit, malt drinks, granola…it all looked pretty delicious and healthy. We ordered a small fruit salad for 6Bs and were served this

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Yeah. That’s whipped cream, strawberry yogurt and dulce de leche on there. At least it was delicious.

7 things we love travelling with

I love travel gear. In fact, I just love anything that carries out its function in a well-designed way (which is partly the reason I’m obsessed with tiny homes. But that’s another story). But I rarely spend money on specialized travel gear. $30 for packing cubes? I’d rather save the money and reuse some old toiletries bags I have lying around. They may not be quite as neat, but they do the job of organizing my clothes inside my backpack.

But sometimes, just sometimes, I buy something specifically designed for travel. Below are the things I’ve found most useful, and thus a worthwhile investment.

Multifunction head gear

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I’ve always laughed at people who wear these superfluous, fashionable multifunction bandana thingies. And then somewhere in Patagonia I thought it might be a good idea to have a scarf that could easily fit in my pocket. So I bought one (cost ARS$35).

I haven’t really made use of the multiple styles you can wear these things in, and it doesn’t replace my regular scarf. But it has been a super balaclava against cold and dust, as well as a neck-warmer in chilly buildings.

Patagonia travel pants

These are probably the best thing I’ve ever bought in my entire life. Really.

I’ve never had anything made by Patagonia before (mostly because it’s bloody expensive). However, when I saw these roll-up, quick-dry pants for sale in an outlet village in Maine for $50 I couldn’t resist (especially since my previous pair of go-to travel pants had just about worn out).

Why I love them: they dry really fast, they’re wrinkle-free, they’re made of a really light, comfy material which, to some extent, repels water (although they’re not waterproof), they look really nice (not as if I’m about to go trekking), and they convert to 3/4 lengths.

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Okay, so I’m obviously trekking here. But you can see how these pants could be worn around town without looking so much like a tourist who got lost on safari. Also, check out that awesome foldable backpack and rain jacket (see below).

Foldable backpacks

I already have a really nice daypack, but it has a big frame which stops it from being easily packable. So, these backpacks from Eastern Mountain Sports, which fold inside themselves to pack down small and light, seemed just perfect for our trip. And so far they’ve been great. They actually fit a lot in them (30 litres) so we’ve used them for multi-day trips when everyone else had to carry a half-empty giant backpack. [My rain jacket also folds up inside itself. See, I told you I love these kind of things.]

Slip on shoes

Jon bought these at EMS, for about $40 and he’s loved wearing them. Because they’re cloth, they fold down really flat making it easy to slide into a small space in your backpack. After almost 6 months of daily use they’re beginning to show wear and tear, but will still last for a while longer.

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USB travel charger

I was actually given this thing ages ago, but never used it much before. There are various plug types which slide on to make it compatible with most sockets you’ll encounter while travelling. Although it’s meant as an iPod charger, anything with a USB can make use of it (my camera, for instance). And the cable is pretty long so it’s nice for charging your device whilst lying in bed.

Travel towels

I’d wanted one of these for ages and finally bought a medium size one for $14, just before setting off for South America. Previously, I’ve just used a regular towel cut in half, but this TekTowel is so much better. It dries fast and takes up only a little space in my pack. Enough said.

Spices

Dried garlic flakes, chili and oregano. They’ve been our savior in badly-stocked hostel kitchens (especially in Argentina, where nothing is spicy enough). We carried them around in their little plastic bags inside a small tupperware – easy to slip in our backpack, and easy to use in preparing all sorts of meals.

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Sucre

If you’re coming to Sucre from Potosí, strip off a few layers and take a deep breath. At a much lower elevation than Potosí and La Paz, Sucre’s temperate climate offers a respite from the nearby altiplano. Perhaps this is why so many people come to the capital for language courses. Although the President and most government departments are in La Paz, Bolivians will proudly tell you that the White City is still the capital.

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A postcard from Museo Nacional de Etnografico y Folklore

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“No fotos!” the ticket seller called out to me as I was walking into the museum. She didn’t offer to sell me a photo permit for 20Bs, even though I knew there was one, and I didn’t ask about it. I paid for it later when I tried to sneak a few pictures and felt incredibly nervous that the security guard would catch me.

But I don’t have the kind of camera that can take good photos in low-light conditions (or from the hip, which is what I was doing to try and avoid detection by the CCTV). You’ll have to just believe me when I say the gallery of masks is one of the coolest exhibitions I’ve seen.

With examples from all over Bolivia, hung at eye-level in poses reminiscent of a dancer in motion and music playing in the background, they looked as if they could have danced right off into the darkness. Even though I’ve seen some of these masks before, bobbing up and down during street parades in La Paz, they looked very different up close. There was no glass between the objects and me so there were no distracting reflections. I could see every detail – sequins, feathers, grass, seeds, foil, cloth and paint – that adorned the wood, metal and plastic surfaces.

The rest of this little museum was pretty cool too. The textile gallery had a light that sensed movement so that it turned off when no-one was in the room (or when you didn’t move for a long time because you were looking at minute figures woven into a belt). The ceramic and feather art galleries also had some interesting pieces (a giant phallus and ridiculously tall plumed head-dress come to mind). There was a cute cartoon running around the entire upper-floor gallery, visualizing the history of Bolivia. And there were lots of coins in the basement (they were the least interesting, but I looked anyway because the kindly guard, who hadn’t managed to catch me sneaking a picture, told me not to miss that section).

Visitors’ info: Museo Nacional de Etnografico y Folklore

Christmas in Bolivia

We escaped La Paz and its rain and wore T-shirt and shorts on Christmas day in the colonial ‘white city’ of Sucre. Our cosy hostel was full of lovely people who cooked a wonderful Christmas dinner. We drank, we ate, we had a good time.

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For New Year we headed even further south to Tarija, where we got alternately sunburnt and soaked with rain. We drank some more. A lot more. We ate cheese and serrano ham and really great mayonnaise. The kind of things you can’t get elsewhere in Bolivia.

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On our way back to La Paz, we stopped in Potosí for a bit of acclimatizing. It was as cold as La Paz, but the people were a little warmer.

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Stay tuned for upcoming posts about our Christmas road trip. Happy 2013 everyone!