You don’t have to be a goth teenager to enjoy a stroll through a cemetery. They’re beautiful because they’re meant to be, especially the Cementerio General de Sucre. Unlike the Cementerio General in La Paz, which is fascinating, but not necessarily peaceful, the one in Sucre has manicured grass and full plots with tombstones, combined with the more morgue-like vaults for those who can’t afford more space. On the benches along the main path there are blind people you can pay to say a prayer for the one you lost. Children work for tips, bringing ladders to those who wish to leave flowers, children’s toys, bottles of whiskey, cans of Coca-Cola or photos for the departed on the higher rows.
How to get there From the center, walk southwest down Calle Junin for about 15 minutes.
Cost It’s free, but you can pay a young child about 10 Bs for a tour.
Hours 8:00-11:00 and 14:00-17:00.
On the suggestion of a friend, we went to Sucre’s Mercado Central for breakfast.
Fruit, malt drinks, granola…it all looked pretty delicious and healthy. We ordered a small fruit salad for 6Bs and were served this…
Yeah. That’s whipped cream, strawberry yogurt and dulce de leche on there. At least it was delicious.
If you’re coming to Sucre from Potosí, strip off a few layers and take a deep breath. At a much lower elevation than Potosí and La Paz, Sucre’s temperate climate offers a respite from the nearby altiplano. Perhaps this is why so many people come to the capital for language courses. Although the President and most government departments are in La Paz, Bolivians will proudly tell you that the White City is still the capital.
We escaped La Paz and its rain and wore T-shirt and shorts on Christmas day in the colonial ‘white city’ of Sucre. Our cosy hostel was full of lovely people who cooked a wonderful Christmas dinner. We drank, we ate, we had a good time.
For New Year we headed even further south to Tarija, where we got alternately sunburnt and soaked with rain. We drank some more. A lot more. We ate cheese and serrano ham and really great mayonnaise. The kind of things you can’t get elsewhere in Bolivia.
On our way back to La Paz, we stopped in Potosí for a bit of acclimatizing. It was as cold as La Paz, but the people were a little warmer.
Stay tuned for upcoming posts about our Christmas road trip. Happy 2013 everyone!